Geisha Costume: using WOOL to make a wig for a Halloween

How adorable is this? Any meter gauging how happy this portrait makes my heart would register FULL. I will cherish this photo of my husband forever. Mind you, I didn’t even twist his arm! The idea arose organically, while reminiscing about our 2 years living in Aizuwakamatsu, Japan. During those years, we observed ~ and participated in ~ so many festivals with many amazing costumes. Twice, we all wore yukata and joined the Bon Odori festival, dancing along the street downtown under the thundering taiko drums.

Despite current societal mood swings about cultural misappropriation… I feel utterly safe dressing my Japanese husband in Japanese cultural attire. He lays claim to his right to represent his heritage and moreover, he points out that traditionally, men played women’s roles in theater. That said, he was also thoroughly entertained to be “masked” & gowned, heading to work. As a wool artist, Halloween afforded me the opportunity to become a “Tokoyama,” or Hairdresser.

Backside of the geisha wig made of needle felted wool. Overexposed photo in effort to make the texture visible, though black wool makes photography challenging.

We would never disrespect a true Geisha, or their ancient heritage. The women study and train for many years to become truly accomplished . Nor would we care to seem anything less than full of admiration and respect for the multitude of skilled Japanese craftsmen & women who’s dedicated work are necessary to every geisha. But this blog isn’t meant to provide a broad overview of Japanese geisha culture. Only a few interesting tidbits are included here to help explain construction of the wool wig I made, in case YOU the reader would like to try making such a wig. This is after all a blog about creating with wool.

Here is a Japanese YouTube video – with English subtitles – that goes thru steps of creating a true Geisha wig. I needed to learn how the hair is styled to create the large puffed sides and back. Observation would give me clues how to use my black wool to best effect.

Would you be as amazed as I was to learn these wigs have a metal helmet underneath? It’s true!

See the side “wing” of hair he is combing out? I tried to copy it with long strips of wool, lightly needle felted to hold together. Go to min 2:07 to see the metal helmet.

A NOTE to the truly knowledgeable and observant: Yes, I am aware there are levels of Geisha. Many intricate forms and meaning to styles of Geisha wig and their ornaments. More meaning to the styles and designs of kimono. However, for a costume, I was chasing simplicity. So with the ready delight of a crafty wife & wool artist, I sought the easier elements to bring together a fun, nice looking costume at reasonable expense, and within my abilities.

Ofuku hairstyle. An authentic Geisha in the springtime.

THE WOOL WIG: a charming friend had gifted me with a bag of Black Welsh Mountain wool already mill processed into a carded batt. It was somewhat coarse, and the black wool in sheet form would help enormously. It was perfect for a wig. Granted it wouldn’t look exactly like combed hair, but close enough. Mainly, I needed to understand the bulky hair rolls. HOW did Geisha wig makers do that? I set about researching and learned fascinating facts such as: the wigs start out with a sort of metal helmet custom fit for each Geisha’s own head. see video link above.

Online research helped determine in which order to construct the top, back and side puffs of the wig. I laid wide strips of my wool batting on the needle felting brush pad, and lightly used a 12 needle tool to poke the strip enough it would hold together. Set aside, make another long strip, until I had sides, top and bottom flaps ready for assembly.

Next, I poked scraps of the wool to form lightweight support rolls – the size of croissants – to lay under the long strips and puff up the hair without unnecessary bulky weight. This wool wig is surprisingly light, and very comfortable on the head.

I used a firm sheet of wool felt (never synthetic) from a felting supply co to cut, hand stitch and form a CAP on my husbands head. Wool breathes nicely, and the felt’s thickness (thicker than synthetic from the craft store) would support my using felting needles to anchor the wool “hair flaps” in place.

Side view. It lacks the precision of a genuine wig, but a most satisfying result for a wool costume wig.

Basically, long, wide strip of the carded wool had short ends attached to the edges of the wig cap, and body of the strip laid over the puffy support rolls, flap ends then secured somewhere in the middle. After all that, I used a hard-holding hair mist to help tame the fuzzies. If it’s good enough for human hair, it’s good enough for sheep wool. Last, I aimed to recreate ornaments with folded bits of Japanese paper, a jeweled hair comb, and silk flowers & shiny beads glued onto ribbon to dangle in front.

Even now, a whole year later, I could use my felting needles to make further adjustments to this wig. I would like to sharpen the lower edge of the side puffs – which are rather too rounded when compared to the real Geisha photo. I probably will do that, now I’ve got more time make improvements.

I may as well add that I had to search for and order a type of white pancake makeup that would last the day on his face without being greasy or crumbly dry. We tested the white makeup weeks in advance. Details matter. When Halloween morning finally arrived, my husband drove to work in full Geisha costume. I smile to imagine the reaction of drivers passing by. Husband later vividly described what a great day he had…. and the delighted reactions from coworkers, which included conversations of having lived awhile in Japan, and the amazing cultural experiences we had there. So going to work in costume actually afforded husband the opportunity to share more about his heritage. An unanticipated genuine bonus of dressing up for a playful holiday.

See other blog entries about using wool for Halloween costumes. Mostly wigs, though I have recently made my first felted Witch Hat.

  1. https://whimsicalewe.com/2016/10/31/needle-felted-wool-rescues-halloween/
  2. https://whimsicalewe.com/2023/11/15/needle-felted-pirate-dreadlocks-on-halloween/ this entry shows the Witches hat at the end…though I ought to just make it’s own post page.

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